Hey Silver Streak- these are the instructionS...

[TOP GUM]

Hey Joe

I'm not an electrician, but if you wouldn't mind look at this diagram
and instructions and see if there is any additional thing necessary to keep
me from burning my car to the ground--- http://buffhomer.corral.net/custom.html

I have read something about a current shut down relay may need to be placed on the wire from cut off switch to alternator, would this be in addition to a fuse?
Also a remote starter solenoid (close to the cut off switch) on the wire to the original starter solenoid- this is confusing???- from the cut off switch :thud: :huh:

I've got my cable,shut-off switch, went with Moroso battery box :bna

Bryan

[Silver Streak]

Wow. That diagram is a lot more complex than it needs to be. All you need to do is run the positive cable to the location where the stock cable is wired in, and run the negative cable to the stock ground location on the block. Doing it as shown in the diagram will work, but there is no need to be that complicated. He also has a 2 gauge cable running the length of the car that is hot all the time, even with the cutoff switch turned off. That means the fuse has to blow before the sparks stop. By running both cables to their stock locations you ensure that all the stock circuit protection devices will work just like they did before.

Another thing I thought of is that I like to mount the cutoff switch in the battery box if there is enough room. This way both wiring connections are made inside the box so there are no live wires outside the box with the switch off. You then need to run a rod from the switch to outside the car. This has the added benefit of being able to remove the rod for daily driving and only install it at the track. The main benefit of this is that somebody can't turn off you battery in a parking lot. I've seen this done, and most people don't like paying a tow bill and electrial systems test only to find that their cutoff switch was turned off by some idiot kid in a parking lot. This also keeps you from having a big ugly switch sticking out the back of your car.

Did you notice his problem with the metal battery box?

[TOP GUM]

JOE
So I can remove the battery terminal off the positive (red) cable up front
and splice in my cable from the battery, then tape it up. I thought I'd run several grounds ( one to quad shock and one to the block(stock location).
Seems like there have been problems with grounding what I have read. So you don't think its necessary to have fuses on either cable? :wtf:
Yes I did read once or twice people hitting the side of the metal box
and sparks flying. :hbomb:
Oh also I have purchased and opened the cut off switch(regular one).
Thought about hiding it behind the license plate.
Thanks for your imput
Bryan

[Silver Streak]

No splices. Splices are bad. Follow the + cable from your battery until you reach the end of the cable. Remove the stock cable at this point and attach the new cable in the same manner. I'm not sure on your car what this point will be. Probably either a starter solenoid on the fenderwell or the starter itself.

The grounding problems should be taken care of if you run a large cable to the stock ground location on the block. Modern cars typically have a dozen or more grounds on the body, but they all tie to the block at some point. If you had a wiring diagram of your car you would see grounds running around in circles, but they all get to the block at some point and for the most part they are redundant. As long as you get a good connection at the block you should be OK with just one giant ground cable.

Fuses are not needed. Even if you did need one it would have to be a 400-500 amp fuse. The starter probably draws about 200 amps peak on a cold morning. Standard practice with fuses is to use one that is rated at twice the designed current draw of the system. 400 amps is plenty to still burn down everything, so it's really of no use at that point. In that wiring diagram they use a fuse in the alternator wiring because it is on the battery side of the cutoff switch.

To run a pushrod to the outside of the vehicle you have to modify a standard cutoff switch. Mounting it behind the license plate keeps it out of sight, but is not race legal. It is supposed to be in plain view of track personnel. The modificaton basically is just drilling a hole in the lever so a rod can be attached to it. I guess you could remove the license plate at the track just as easily, which isn't a bad idea anyway in case pics of your car end up on the net.

[TOP GUM]

Thanks Joe :allhail:
That was my plan to remove at the track. I don't go that often anyway.
Let the project BEGIN !

Thanks Bryan :)