First Dyno run

[O'Cobra]

So how do these numbers look or compare. From what I've heard, it should be about right. I've got a Intake, Lightning pulley and Magnaflow cat-back:

413.97 RWHP
410.00 Ft-lb

It was a fairly cool afternoon. I went with a group of guys from Charlotte from the 3SI club. I had a VR4 before my Lightning. It was fun. At the top of the RPM range looks like it could be a little smoother and I'm sure a chip would help. I don't really want to chip it because I'm trying to run her into the 11's as is.

Also, is there another more active board for SVT owners?

[jboselly]

Numbers look fairly consistent with your mods. A very active message board is svtperformance.com.

[1CEBITN]

You had better get your A/F measured if you are not running a chip. The L pulley is small enough that it makes the car run dangerously lean. You have already voided the warranty with the pulley so you might as well get the chip or a Predator to make it safe. That way you won't be shocked when you blow your motor b/c you are running too lean and Ford refuses to fix it. Most guys won't run anything smaller than a 3.1 pulley without a chip to tune the A/F in a safe range for everyday driving.

Also, the dyno numbers look a little low to me. Most I have seen dyno around 450/475 with the L pulley (2.93). Most people get to 400 rwhp with just the CAI and catback. Maybe it is b/c most guys run the chip/pulley combo on a pulley that small and the chip gives a little extra power.

Check svtperformance.com for more information but I would get an A/F reading immediately and stay out of the upper RPM ranges until you know it is safe (around 12:1 from 3500 rpm up).

[GOT SVT]

another good board is

http://www.modularfords.com

[O'Cobra]

Great input PJ. I'm actually going to add a A/F gauge here soon to help. The only thing I'm worried about is having to much HP without upgrading internals, injectors and such.

Side Note: I raced a monster of a 03 in a street race with 2 Vipers this weekend in Charlotte. The guy wouldn't tell me what he had before he raced me. He pulled on me in third and then hard in 4th. I was talking the guy that built the car when we got back to the parking lot and he also had it chipped, X-pipe, Ect. The Driver still wouldn't tell me what else he had but he did have a loud rod knocking as he pulled away with only 10K on the O/D. I felt bad for the guy.

It really doesn't seem to be running lean. If anything, I'd say it's a little rich because of the smoke I get occasionally. Thanks again for the input.

[1CEBITN]

Smoke doesn't necessarily mean you are running rich and you have no idea what the A/F is at a given RPM based on that information, even if it were accurate. You could very well be running rich in some part of the RPM band and lean elsewhere (up high) which could cause engine problems, i.e. detonation.

Keep in mind that your A/F is going to be different at different points in the RPM band so you are running a risk by not having the A/F checked.

You added 3-4 pounds of boost with the L pulley and that is a lot of extra air being forced into the engine over stock and you have not added any fuel to mix with that new forced air. Your fuel tables are still stock so you are running much leaner than when stock. These cars don't really run that rich from the factory so you are playing with fire. You have been warned but it's your car so do what you like...

[O'Cobra]

"You added 3-4 pounds of boost with the L pulley and that is a lot of extra air being forced into the engine over stock and you have not added any fuel to mix with that new forced air. Your fuel tables are still stock so you are running much leaner than when stock. These cars don't really run that rich from the factory so you are playing with fire. You have been warned but it's your car so do what you like..."

I wasn't trying to be defiant with my reply. I really appreciate your input. I'm a little new to these cars and trusted the guy that's done the work on it. He said the car should be able compensate for a 4 lb increase in boost. Is this not true? If so, I'll do a chip for strickly tuning purposes. Again, I appreciate your help.

[1CEBITN]

I wasn't trying to be harsh with you. I looked at my response and can see where it could be taken that way though and I apologize for that. I just wouldn't want you to be left holding the bag if something happened to your car because of bad advice from an installer at a speed shop. The guy doing the work on your car isn't going to pay for a new engine and Ford won't either.

Maybe the guy working on your car knows something none of the other tuners do, but all of the good ones will tell you to make sure the A/F is in a safe area (around 12:1 from 3500 on up at least) following any pulley modification. Do a search for this topic on svtperformance.com or modularfords.com and you will find overwhelming amounts of data showing the need for a chip to fix the A/F with a pulley.

I would be curious to know why the guy working on your car thinks you are safe and what data he has to back it up. Is he going to warranty your engine if it breaks because you took his advice?

The engine is pretty bulletproof but it will not make up for an improper tune. Has he ever looked at an A/F reading from a wideband done on a dyno or real time data logging from an untuned car with a 2.93 L pulley? Maybe his definition of "safe" and everyone elses are different?

Before you go and buy a chip based on just my advice, I would recommend getting an A/F reading at your next dyno session or check it yourself with an A/F meter on your car to see if you are safe or not. If you are, don't worry about it but if you are not, you will want to get a chip or the predator to take care of it. I just wanted to warn you and try to get you to find out for sure what your car is doing after the mods. Good luck!

[anvrsy red vertble]

Lets resolve this issue about A\F ratio. As far as I understand the only true method of measuring A\F is to have the sensor before the cats. Now I haven't seen any pre-cats pipe whether X-pipe or H-pipe with bung adapters before the cats to install the A\F sensor from the dyno shop !!! So how has anyone with a cat system effectively measued A\F ratio if the sensor is after the cats??? A catalytic converter is supposed to get rid of unused gas, which will give a very biased reading. Any comments from any experts out there on this!!!!!!! My 2 cnts.

[1CEBITN]

You have to weld in a bung on one side or the other (or both but only measure from one side at a time) before the cats to get the most accurate measurement. Talk to the dyno operator about what size bung to buy. Usually it is the same size as the 02 sensor bung or an oil drain plug and you can get them from most auto supply shops. Any welder can install it for you for less than $20.

Some dyno shops will still use the tailpipe sniffer after the cats which is not nearly as solid a number. I wouldn't trust it. You can also install your own A/F gauge through the bung you have welded in to constantly monitor A/F on the road under a load. I am not sure why some of the aftermarket manufacturers haven't started putting a bung in front of the cats yet, seems like an easy way to get a leg up on the competition.