Crank Pully Question

[Lumpydogs]

I'm in the middle of swapping out underdrive pullies on my
01' Cobra and ran into a tight spot.

How much force should it take to remove the crank pully
from the shaft???? The center bolt was removed from the
pully, no problem. I'm using a brand new pullie puller.

I torqued the center puller bolt up to approx. 65 ft-lbs. but
the pully hasn't moved. I'm a little nervous about applying
too much torque, I was under the assumption that the
crank pully should come off with minimal to moderate force.

Can I just lean into it and force the pully off or is there
a trick I don't know about?

Your info. will be greatly appreciated.

:huh:

[MINERALGSVT]

Subscribing... I'm getting ready to put Steeda pullies on mine this weekend..

[Lumpydogs]

Hah! I figured it out. Had to add a small amount of heat to the problem. Warmed up the pully until it was hot to touch (not cooked) and the crank pully pulled right off.

Todd, my fellow mineral man, the Steeda pullies work great. No noticeable electrical drain. I ran the car around about 45 minutes and the temp gauge never went passed half way. With the exception of the crank pully resisting extraction the job was easy.

p.s. How much trouble were the 25mm spacers? Did you have to trim off the factory studs? Are you satisfied with the 25mm or would you get 30 or 35mm next time?

-Jeff

[MINERALGSVT]

Originally posted by Lumpydogs
Hah! I figured it out. Had to add a small amount of heat to the problem. Warmed up the pully until it was hot to touch (not cooked) and the crank pully pulled right off.

Todd, my fellow mineral man, the Steeda pullies work great. No noticeable electrical drain. I ran the car around about 45 minutes and the temp gauge never went passed half way. With the exception of the crank pully resisting extraction the job was easy.

p.s. How much trouble were the 25mm spacers? Did you have to trim off the factory studs? Are you satisfied with the 25mm or would you get 30 or 35mm next time?

-Jeff

Jeff...

How was the butt meter after the install? Any noticeable difference?

The spacers are a piece of cake. No trimming of the studs necessary. I think the 25 mm is perfect, but you could probably get by with the 30.. I plan to add 275s in the rear when these tires wear out.. I would send pics, but you really can't tell much difference, but in person, it's like night and day!

Good Luck.. my mineral brother!

[Ken 01-Cobra]

You can see a side by side before and after pic of the 25mm spacers on my Cobra page in my link. *I* think you can see a difference. ;)

Oh, as for the studs...if you run factory wheels or Steeda Ultralites, no problem as they have divots in the back of the wheel that will allow the stud to slip in. If you want to run Weld's, or about any other racing wheel, you'll need to cut and grind the studs down. Trust me on this one... ;) HARD experience talking here!

[Lumpydogs]

Guys,

Yes, the butt-meter can feel the difference. Nothing shocking but the snake does pull harder after 3,000 RPM. Also, it pulls a little harder throughout the entire band at half throttle.

Thanks to Ken and his website. I ordered a pair of 25mm
spacers from Maximum Motorsport. Should have them in time for a quick weekend project.

Regards,

J. Michael

[Ken 01-Cobra]

I know you'll like the looks better, and it seems to help with the wheel hop issue as well. I'm glad the website was useful for you! :D

[bower]

Originally posted by Lumpydogs

.... No noticeable electrical drain. I ran the car around about 45 minutes and the temp gauge never went passed half way. ...

-Jeff

Just want to point out that the gauges in the '99+ Mustangs are fake. That temp gauge sticks near the middle from at least 180 (after a long time) to well over 220. The voltmeter is more like the oil press gauge (er....5psi switch!) - it's stuck at 3/4 scale as long as any voltage is present.

I finally installed press and temp gauges in the Autometer cluster bezel. Finally, I can see what is going on! After I get the feel of where it normally runs, then I can put in some pullies and have a much better sense of any cooling issues.

-Dave
'01 Cobra coupe with the usual mods

[Lumpydogs]

Fake Gauges Eh?

Well Ford must have spent some big bucks on the fake gages because my voltage is at 12:30, oil pressure is at 12:00 and I can watch my temp gauge flucuate accordingly. I admit that I don't know how accurate, precise or the linearity of the gauges, but I'm sure they are not binary (on/off) fake gauges. Maybe Dave meant to say "less sensitive" guages than the Autometer Guages that he installed.

Only my opinion.

[Ken 01-Cobra]

From what I have been able to determine, bower is right. The gauges on our cars are little more than idiot lights with needles on them.

If you see your temp gauge moving, then you must be at the upper or lower limit of the preset. e.g. less than 180 or more than ~230 I think. Mine stays dead still after it reaches operating temperature...whether I run it at WOT down the strip or sit in bumper to bumper traffic for an hour.

The oil pressure gauge is even worse. I don't think that thing shows any movement until you have little to no oil pressure. I was a quart and a half down once (the Ford guys didn't put enough in) and the oil pressure gauge happily reported the same as when everything is topped and cool. It reports the same after hard driving. It reports the same after an hour of bumper to bumper traffic.

The electrical gauge is also the same, though it seems to at least be a little more sensitive than the other two.

I've seriously considered real gauges, but since my shift light is on the a pillar, I don't know where I would put them! :(

[bower]

The temp gauge, as Ken states, sticks at just under mid-scale no matter the conditions (heater on, 80mph, 32* outside - or AC on, 110* outside, in traffic). Furthermore, after seeing my real gauge in operation and comparing: the first time the temp hits 185*, I can see the thermostat open and the temp drop a little. But the stock gauge is barely off of 1/4 low. And, in traffic, the temp gets to about 220* then drops as the fan kicks in. But the stocker is happy at just under mid-scale. The stock temp gauge is looking for both temperature AND time. It is completely useless as a gauge.

Oil pressure: it's a switch. The gauge will show either 3/4 scale or 0, controlled by a 5psi switch. Ford has been doing this since at least the '96+ Mustangs. Real gauge shows about 25 psi hot idle, 80 psi at 6500 rpm hot, and over 100 psi at cold start.

Volts: no better than pressure. Try this: ignition on, engine off. Turn on stuff - lights, AC blower, rear defroster, etc. Maybe - JUST maybe, I can see the needle move 1/2 the width of the needle. Blah!

I have taken apart the cluster - and the gauges are controlled by a processor within the cluster (all '99+ Mustangs are like this). There is a diagnostic mode for the cluster - push and hold the trip button for 5 secs after ign on. Then you can cycle through the various modes.

Unless you can change the code, we are stuck with these POS things and are forced to add tack on gauges to see what is really going on - esp for adding underdrive pullies.

Ken - you can add two gauges using the Autometer cluster bezel mount (as I did). Looks ok - works just fine.

-Dave

[Ken 01-Cobra]

Originally posted by bower
Ken - you can add two gauges using the Autometer cluster bezel mount (as I did). Looks ok - works just fine.

-Dave
Dave...do you have a picture of your setup? I would like to see how it looks.

[bower]

I have some shots, though taken with a rather poor digicam. I'll try to post them tonight when I get home.

-Dave

edit: Pics loaded in my gallery. Sorry for the fuzzy interior shot!

[Ken 01-Cobra]

Bower...thanks for the pic! That might work for me, though I think those would be mounted a bit low for me. I'll have to take a look at it the next time I'm in the car and see if the gauges sitting there would be easy to see and read. :) Again, thanks for the pic. One picture is worth 1000 words.

[bower]

The sitelines to the new gauges aren't the best - but they are visible. I have the steering column one notch below the top most position (I'm tall). If you run two clicks from the top, the visibility will be even better. I think 'A' pillar mounts are the most visible, but just a bit over the top for my tastes.

Sorry if all this got too much off topic!

-Dave

[Ken 01-Cobra]

Well, I have my shift light on the A-pillar, and I like it there. (pics on my site) I am not all that tall, but I like to be able to see everything without having issues of having to move around to do so. I COULD move the shift light, but it is pretty sweet where it is. I MIGHT be able to mount the shift light under the gauges on the pod, but I don't know what that would do for visibility. I guess I need a picture of the double mount A-pillar installed.

As for off topic, there isn't a thread on any system that stays on topic for long. ;) Don't worry about it.